An independent magazine about careful renovation of old houses. It is not a restoration company or a heritage authority, provides no services and has no connection with previous websites on this domain.

How-to

How-to guides

Much of the work in an old house is well within the owner's reach: inspecting and draught-proofing windows before the cold sets in, cleaning parquet properly, spotting a crack or a leak in time. But DIY has a clear limit. Old paints, materials that may contain asbestos, load-bearing structures and the facade are specialist territory, and no amount of care changes that.

Good work in an old house is reversible: a seal can be removed, tape peeled off, a finish refreshed. If nothing can be undone after what you did, you should have called a craftsman.

— From the editors

How this section works: we describe simple steps in general terms, without recipes or figures. How to use products and materials is set out by their manufacturers. If the building is a heritage site or you are unsure what old coatings contain, stop and consult a specialist.

How to get a timber window ready for winter without replacing it

  1. Inspect the frame in daylight

    Check the bottom rails of the sashes, the drip mouldings and the sill board, and look for gaps between the glass and the frame, cracks and areas of timber that feel soft. Write down what you find: serious damage should be shown to a timber window specialist.

  2. Clean the window without abrasives

    Brush dust out of the rebates with a soft brush and wipe the glass and frame with a slightly damp cloth. Don't scrape or sand flaking paint: the old layers may contain lead. Note any loose flakes for a specialist.

  3. Check how the sashes close

    Each sash should close tightly and without force. If a sash is out of square or sticks, don't plane it yourself: the cause may be settlement of the building or swollen timber, and adjustment is best left to a craftsman.

  4. Fit draught seals in the rebates

    A removable draught seal suitable for timber windows closes the gaps between sash and frame and comes off without leaving marks. Choose the profile to suit the width of the gap, follow the product instructions and don't pack the rebates so tightly that the sash no longer closes.

  5. Seal gaps in reversible ways

    Remaining gaps between the frames can be closed for the season with materials that are easy to remove in spring without damaging the paint. Don't use expanding foam or sealants that glue sashes shut for good and trap moisture in the timber.

  6. Watch for condensation in winter

    If water collects between the frames or on the glass, wipe it off and air the room. Persistent condensation is a reason to check the flat's ventilation and the window's condition with a specialist; otherwise the bottom rails will start to rot.

How to care for old parquet

  1. Remove sand and dust

    Grit under shoes acts like sandpaper and wears away the protective finish. Vacuum the parquet with a hard-floor attachment or sweep with a soft brush, especially by the entrance and in the hallway.

  2. Clean with an almost dry cloth

    Damp-clean with a well wrung-out cloth and a product intended for wooden floors. Puddles and wet cloths on parquet are a no-go: water seeps into the joints, and the blocks swell and come loose.

  3. Protect the floor from furniture

    Stick soft pads to chair and table legs and don't drag heavy furniture. Put a protective mat under chairs on castors: the wheels quickly dent and wear old timber.

  4. Keep the indoor climate steady

    Parquet reacts to the dry air of the heating season and to summer damp: gaps and creaks appear. Keep the humidity in the flat steady, don't place heaters right against the floor and ventilate without draughts blowing over a wet surface.

  5. Put mats by the doors

    A mat by the front door and the balcony door catches sand and water from shoes. Choose mats with a backing that won't stain the timber or trap moisture against it, and lift them from time to time so the floor underneath can breathe.

  6. Refresh the finish in good time

    When the protective coat has dulled, it is refreshed with a product compatible with the existing finish, following the manufacturer's instructions. Leave sanding, block replacement and full restoration of old parquet to a craftsman who can assess the thickness of the wear layer.

  • Tools

    What helps you inspect and gently look after an old house, with no brands, plus protective equipment.

  • Care

    Caring for timber windows, parquet, mouldings, stoves, old doors and lime-plastered walls, plus a seasonal check.

  • Planning

    How to plan a renovation in an old building: its status, a survey, approvals, choosing a team and signing off the work.

Sources

  • Safety recommendations for working with old coatings
  • Guidance materials on the preservation of cultural heritage sites

This information is given in general terms, based on the text of Russian Federal Law No. 73-FZ, guidance materials on the preservation of cultural heritage sites and safety recommendations for working with old coatings. Other countries have their own rules for listed or protected buildings. The status of your building and the work allowed are decided by the heritage authority, and the condition of the structure is assessed by survey specialists.